"Go there today," the woman in the café tells me. "You don't get many days like today." "No?" I ask her. "Not up the Spluga. You probably get about five clear days every summer, really clear days." I'd set off that morning, passport at the ready, with the intention of going up the border into … Continue reading Montespluga

Up Grigna, Lake Como way

It was supposed to be a family affair, the four of us. "Have we got enough petrol?" "Yes, of course we have." Of course we have enough petrol. "Excuse me, how much further is it to the start of the walk?" I ask. The man cycling upwards pulls a face. "Oh, about four kilometres." Not so long after we're … Continue reading Up Grigna, Lake Como way

Mountain refuge

Yesterday I was sitting in a mountain refuge with my oldest Italian friends. It's the thing I like doing best. Walking up a mountain, taking in the views of the said mountain and then sitting in a mountain refuge and eating mountain food. It was an early birthday celebration, a day with friends and their … Continue reading Mountain refuge